I didn’t enjoy carrying my rucksack once again, but Ros had made me some pads to attach to the shoulder straps so my bony shoulders are now protected! Our route today was partly across fields, and partly on long stony paths, with plenty of climbing once again. We followed Lady Anne’s Way for most of our walk and it was extremely hot today, so the climbing wasn’t easy, especially the final climb across the ridge before descending into Wensleydale and to our accommodation in the lovely old town of Hawes.

A Backward Glance

The sun keeps shining and we keep climbing. Apart from a few walkers at our outset and a young family near the end we were totally on our own again. Paths were good, either wide limestone gravel or springy turf. Even so, because of the unrelenting slopes and heat we found ourselves needing to stop at about three mile intervals. First was on moorland where signs were posted at every gate warning us not to wander from paths in case of disturbing nests of Curlews and Lapwings. They were constantly flying over us while walking and when we sat for a rest, we could see Curlews with stretched necks watching us from their nest sites. In the same area there were wooden grouse shooting butts; so not the same privileges if you’re a bit tasty then. Next rest stop came after a long stony path descent into a hamlet where a seat in a church garden provided a perfect spot for lunch. As we ate our biscuits we watched the only inhabitants, what I believe were House Martins, flying around a dry stone barn opposite enjoying their aerial snacks. From there a confusing descent took us across two more rivers and towards a final steep climb and third rest at the top. Throughout the hot walk we had the world to ourselves with views across surrounding hills to distant small villages. A long day but even before a long drink and a good feed at The White Hart in Hawes, just down the road from our digs, we’d already arranged a rest day with the owner; so two happy tramps.