Day 64: Keld to Bowes

Another warm day, but with a pleasant breeze throughout. We left Keld, and our route took us steadily upwards until we reached the Tan Hill Inn, which is the highest pub in Britain, at 1732 ft above sea level. We had a welcome drink, but decided against an early lunch, as hot meals didn’t appeal!

From this point, we left Yorkshire and entered County Durham. The scenery changed from the rolling Dales to open, much flatter moorland. Sleightholme Moor would have been very difficult to cross in bad weather as, even in the current heatwave, we had to be careful crossing streams and bogs. From the moor we took footpaths to eventually reach the Ancient Unicorn Hotel. Unfortunately the restaurant is closed on Monday and Tuesday so we made do with our snacks as we couldn’t face a further three mile walk to the town.

A Backward Glance

Jesus once said He is ‘The Way’ and some of us take the claim seriously and others of us not so much these days. My point though is that He doesn’t use the term ‘Path’ as David did in Psalm 23. A ‘Way’ is unique because even ordinary folk unfamiliar with the terrain, can know they are heading in the right direction when on it. Paths most times are marked simply ‘Public Footpath’ and occasionally have a nearby village name appended. I’d need at least a map and compass to be confident the path was taking me where I wanted to go. ‘Ways’ are different. So long as we stay on them, there is no question about direction or location; while on ‘the way’ no additional checks are necessary. Since leaving the Coastal ‘Path’ we’ve followed so many Ways, Monarchs Way, Mendip Way, Cotswold Way, Shakespeare’s Avon Way, Heart of England Way ……….. Pennine Way. The Ways have sometimes been very narrow and not easy; through mud, bogs, even hedges and of course over hills, but they have also been key to our progress and enjoyment so far. To loose my ‘way’ means so much more now than before this walk. Today we followed The Pennine Way again and there were indeed few people on it, we met three others. However, the rugged broken beauty of the surroundings continues its distilling work in those who immerse themselves. Mind you, we did learn about a man who sank up to his waist in a peat hole on the Yorkshire moor who probably wouldn’t share my sentiment. I think his wife encountered serious difficulty pulling him out (or pushing him further in). The jury is still out on that one!

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