I must admit that I didn’t enjoy today’s walk, despite the views from the hills. I think it is because I am tired and looking forward to a rest day! We left Galashiels in good walking weather, sunny with a pleasant breeze, following the Southern Upland Way. But from the start we were climbing. Initially we climbed over moors accompanied by sheep as usual. Then we were climbing through pine forests, about four miles moving steadily uphill! By the time we were at the top, ready to picnic, the rain which was forecast arrived. The rest of our walk was in torrential rain, and we arrived finally at our guest house like drowned rats! We were soaked to the skin and were relieved to have a room with a bath. In clean, dry clothes we were able to embark to a pub for supper – in sunshine!

A Backward Glance

Today Carol told me that I smell. It’s the kind of information she gives me regular updates on, but this time was different and said in realisation of its broader implications. The other day we arrived at a hotel reception and were asked whether we would prefer to have dinner at the bar or at the upstairs dining room. I wanted the dining room but Carol said we didn’t have a suitable change of clothes. It’s OK I protested, I’d change my socks before we went up, which had everyone else in the reception area rolling about laughing – but I was serious. I really did have a pair of socks in my bag that I’d only worn five times. We’re only two days from a launderette at the moment, which is both good and bad, if you know what I mean. From the start and for seven miles of non stop aching it was uphill, mostly along stony lanes through woods and a lot of narrow hedgerows. There were few opportunities to gaze at the impressive hills around us, partly because of the tunnel like nature of the climb but also because the sky was getting darker by the hour. When Komoot could find no further hill to climb we rested our bodies, had lunch and changed into our wet weather clothes. The next seven miles was along a ridge then down a long descending slippery path in pouring rain to Innerleithen. All this time I was attempting but failing to take photos of a bedraggled woman using drenched phone and fingers, until arriving at our lodgings even smellier and wetter than when we left Galashiels. An exhausting walk reminding us of our first days in Cornwall with family.