We left early for the final stage of the West Highland Way, to find we were joining a queue for the long climb out of Kinlochleven. We allowed people to overtake us, as we oldies walk more slowly uphill! We saw people we had met previously, as we walked on the Military Road once again. It was an easy route, although we needed to watch our feet on the loose stones and of course streams coursing down the path. It continued to rain on and off, and unfortunately the surrounding mountains were mainly enveloped in clouds. When we thought the end was in sight, we found it was a very long winding descent, and we stopped at the Ben Nevis Visitor’s Centre for coffee before making our way into Fort William and our hotel for the next two nights.

A Backward Glance

Carol is good at getting up early in the mornings, whereas I’m better left until early afternoon. Not today though, it was going to be a long sixteen miler so we were both up early leading a long line of other tired legs up a hill out of Kinlochleven. We passed wild campers along the path peering out at the commotion through sleepy eyes and soaking wet tent flaps. Overtaking slower older walkers on a narrow path is always accompanied by friendly banter (it’s virtually obligatory), so by the time we’d resumed our natural rearguard position everybody in front were almost like family to us. Then when we pass those who have given in to their rumbling tummies they wave at us like long lost friends and want to know everything that’s happened since we last met. Jennifer (another American) said “nice weather” as she passed us in the pouring rain. “Nice Poncho”, I replied. She was under a large billowing piece of yellow plastic that covered her and her small sensible backpack. We then spent ten minutes or more discussing the virtues of many types of rain protection, agreeing that the guy in front wearing what could have been the tent he slept under last night had the ultimate all purpose cover protection. At earliest opportunity she excused herself to catch up with her three other friends who were by now galloping off at a pace. Later when we met up with her again, after she and her friends had stopped for a picnic, they invited us to join them and immediately handed us three digestive dark chocolate biscuits! While Jennifer and Carol were studying maps and discussing best route into Fort William, I looked to where I’d last seen the packet of biscuits but it had gone and where it had been her three friends were quietly standing together smiling politely at me. When we reached half way the path split; the wide General Wade route continued off down a hill and was sign posted ‘Fort William 4.5 miles’. The narrow West Highlands Way route led upwards into the hills and was sign posted ‘Fort William 7.5 miles’. We both wanted to continue on the shorter General Wade path, but neither of us would admit to it, so we ended up taking the longer narrower steep climbing path thinking that’s what the other wanted. As we walked towards the conclusion of the West Highland Way, the weather brightened and the mountain peaks stretched ever higher culminating with our arrival at the foot of Ben Nevis. The West Highland Way leg of our walk has been the most populated, with wet weather and longest, hilliest sections to cover in one day, but it has also provided some of the most beautiful scenery and enjoyable encounters of our journey so far.