Day 109: Golspie to Brora

Today was the shortest walk of our journey so far, but exciting nonetheless: we saw an enormous colony of grey seals, basking on the rocks or bobbing up and down in the sea, and were also privileged to see a dolphin playing further from the shore! We set out from Golspie, across a small bridge and initially walked along the coast on a grassy bank for a while. We passed Dunrobin Castle, a real fairytale castle which would have delighted our youngest granddaughter. Then, after a short walk through woodland we descended to a beach, where the tide was out, and it was difficult to distinguish the many seals from the rocks where they sunned themselves. We continued along the beach, stopping frequently to watch and listen. We left the beach to walk into the village of Brora, where we stopped for lunch and made our way to the pub where we were staying for the night. Another, enjoyable sunny day!

A Backward Glance

Set off today in optimistic mood. Mr Kamoot was turned off and a shore line walk in sunshine put a spring in our heels. From the start we were presented with a palace walk pass, keeping our heads turned left as we marched by in true military fashion. When I looked hard I thought I could see Rapunzel frantically waving to all the young men from her top window. Dunrobin Castle would be considered a suitable residence for almost all the fairy tale princesses I’ve read about, that’s for certain. Alastair Charles St Clair Sutherland (Lord Strathnaver Earl of Sutherland) and his family actually reside there as have his ancestors for the last 700 years. They occupy one wing of the castle. Now my age, at 22 having graduated from Oxford with a BA degree, he worked for the MET for five years then with IBM for three, by which time – naturally exhausted – he retired. Some fairy tales are best left untold; nice pad though. The views were stunning as we took in our first taste of the North Sea coast and were soon drawn off the grass lawns and onto the sandy beach. Some of the rocks along the beach had tails that wagged: a curious phenomenon I thought, until a Spanish walker we met pointed out the many large grey seals. He also said that not far off shore there were dolphins jumping, and while in conversation we saw several leaping in their curved trajectory across the waves. For me though, the bird activity all along our beach trek was mesmerising. Long red beaked Oyster Catchers, Arctic Terns, large groups of shag drying their wings on rocks and what may have been Shearwaters, flying just a foot above the water. It was all going on. The lasting memory though will be the soft howls of the Seals. A short but full day’s walk.
For oft’ when on my couch I lie
In vacant or in pensive mood
They flash upon that inward eye
Which is the bliss of solitude
And then my heart with pleasure fills
So haunted by those howling seals
(Apologies to Mr. Wordsworth)

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