Day 113: Berriedale to Dunbeath

Today’s landscape was similar to yesterday, as we struggled on overgrown paths. However there were fewer ravines to cross and much of the walk was on the seaward side of perimeter fences and drystone walls. The right hand side of the path was mainly edged by steep sloped bracken, but occasionally by steep drops to the sea: not good for someone who doesn’t have a good head for heights! (I was at times tempted to climb over the wall and walk on the other side!) But the views were amazing.

The walk was well signposted, until we were directed inland and reached a small pine forest adjacent to the main A9. Here the signs stopped, and we walked along the path we assumed to be the right one, and emerged in a farm lane. This resulted in a detour down towards Dunbeath Castle, before we finally found our way to the village and then to our accommodation for the night: a bespoke Shepherd’s Hut, surrounded by free range chickens and geese!

A Backward Glance

Feeling tired from the start today and it was steady climbing from the outset. The higher we climbed the warmer the day became and eventually we were enjoying easier fairly level grassy paths amongst majestic cliff top scenery. At one high cliff alcove there was a rectangular stone memorial on the ground close to a sheer drop into the sea far below. Large numbers of sea birds (probably teenagers) were using the cliffs to show off their aerial manoeuvres and landings onto narrow ledges. The stone construction had a flat cover over it at perfect seat height so we sat there, eating our meagre lunch, enjoying the display playing out in front us. There was a small roughly oval stone plaque hidden on the seaward edge of the low oblong table structure we were sitting on, engraved ‘MIN very lovely 1942 – 2019’. I wondered whether MIN was inside peering out watching with us. When we got up to go I tried looking between the open narrow gaps between the stones, but couldn’t see anyone. One bird had been flying a figure of eight repeatedly all the time we were there gliding up to a point on the cliff edge close to the path further along. When I got there I waited and sure enough it arrived almost within touching distance and gave a slight turn of its head towards me, second time I said “Hi” but it ignored me completely – typical teenager.

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