Today was a grey day. It had rained heavily overnight, and so from the start we were walking through very wet vegetation. After about an hour my boots were squelching and my trousers were soaked (why didn’t I think of putting on waterproof trousers?). Despite the stunning scenery, I found it a very tiring walk: waist high vegetation, burns to navigate, stiles and barbed wire fences to cross and fairly constant drizzle.

We finally reached Whaligoe, with 30 minutes to await our taxi to Wick. We decided not to walk down the 365 Whaligoe steps, with depleted energy! But I was accosted by Davie Nicolson, a local guy and self proclaimed guardian of the steps, who regaled me with it’s history: his grandfather ran the last fishing boat out of Whaligoe before herring fishing stopped. I was cold, wet and not very cheerful, and looking forward to a warm bath and time to relax. Not the best way to celebrate our 49th wedding anniversary! A pleasant meal and a glass of wine restored my sense of well being.

A Backward Glance

The John o’ Groats Trail isn’t getting any easier as we head along it northwards. The path was not difficult to follow today albeit through chest high vegetation drying itself on us, but again, it was climbing over fences, down into ravines then scrambling up steep slippery slopes on all fours to get back out again. Carol’s shoes were filling with water and she was showing first signs of ‘trench foot’ – grumpiness. The wind was getting up, so near a lighthouse that had been transformed into a private dwelling we looked for some rocks to shelter behind and have a bite to eat. The rest did us good and Carol changed into waterproof socks and put her happy face back on again. Returning to the path we pushed on and I just mentioned how different it would be doing this on one’s own, then immediately realised I’d better keep a lot more distance between myself and her walking poles when alongside the perilous steep drops. The last few days have delivered a spectacular coastal walking experience, but it has also been the most gruelling for us both. Arriving at the amazing Whaligoe Steps cheered us though, especially Carol because she was targeted by the famous local guide Davie Nicolson who gave her it’s full history, while we waited for our taxi to arrive and take us to a hot bath and cold drinks.