A cloudy day today, but perfect walking weather. The terrain was mixed: we started with steep climbs and amazing coastal scenery, followed by gently undulating cliff walks alongside newly ploughed fields to steep paths through woodlands amongst bluebells and primroses. We encountered plenty of walkers today – coming from the opposite direction or overtaking us! Fellow walkers are usually friendly and happy to stop and chat.

We eventually descended into Clovelly, a lovely, unspoiled village with steep cobbled streets. Again we were too late for lunch but enjoyed a chat with the hostess whilst we had a well-earned drink and snack, booking ourselves in for an early dinner.

A Backward Glance

Todays walk was climbing from the start with some of the finest coastline views we’ve had. Then the path levelled and we wound our way around wide green grass fields and their grazing inhabitants. Groups of gulls glided over our heads one after another along the cliffs all following the same line, then dropping down and across deep coves like beads on a wavy string. We saw the occasional ‘Jonathon’ tearing down towards the brine and swooping back beating its wings as it sped up towards its more leisurely mates. As the path became more muddy it descended into wooded glades where crowds of bluebells nodded as we passed. The enchantment of these quiet places is ineffable despite the valiant attempts of our greatest wordsmiths. The smells, quiet sounds and playful light instilled a reverence in us as we wandered through its panoply of leafy wooden arches. Soon out into the clear again before making a final descent into shore end of Clovelly’s very steep, stony main street. On our walk we met several friendly, interesting travellers. Andy, a young lad who’s taken seven months off to walk around the entire coast and border of England, starting from Bristol (centre of the universe to some of us). Also a couple from Switzerland (Flavia and Marco) who come regularly to walk the south coast of our country. Coincidently we saw them again during dinner at our lodgings – hopefully meet them again on tomorrow’s walk in the rain towards Westward Ho!