Day 107: Tain to Dornoch

Today the sun was shining, all day! We set off from Tain, soon reaching the dreaded A9, but fortunately there were wide verges, and after half a mile we detoured on footpaths until we rejoined the road to cross the mile-long bridge over the Dornoch Firth. Having crossed the bridge we descended onto a Heather and Gorse lined footpath along the edge of the Firth, and then joined a narrow tarmac road all the way into Dornoch. We arrived in time for a pub lunch, before making our way to our accommodation. A really lovely day!

A Backward Glance

The sun was glaring at us through our bedroom window this morning, from the time Carol woke by all accounts. I was keen to enjoy the Chaise Longue in our room for a couple of hours more because we only had a short walk today, but that was not a good enough excuse. I thought of leaving a note on the seat that read, ‘This seat is dedicated to the memory of David who always liked sitting down’. Both immature and premature I’m told and I didn’t have the brass to do it anyway. Walking verges of the A9 under a cerulean (that’s blue, Peter) sky with the sun’s warmth on our back packs was bordering on pleasant, especially when we saw for the first time ‘John o’ Groats’ on a road sign. After a very long slog we got to the Dornoch Firth bridge and had pedestrian pavement under our boots for its half mile length (21 spans of 144 feet). The views over the water were great, and in that windy noisy place, I had a quiet still sense that we were entering the final home strait. On the far side of the bridge we saw the small ‘John o’ Groats Way’ marker pointing over the Armco crash barrier and down a grassy bank. This was something we were both getting rather good at, so we nipped over like a couple of pros and were walking along the much more enjoyable path by the water’s edge in no time. We were in another world of purple flowering heather, a playground for all the many other colourful flowers around our feet. As we got closer to Dornoch we passed the noisiest tree I’ve ever come across in my life. There must have been a hundred crows (or ravens, not sure which) arguing and screeching in it, but I couldn’t see a single one of them! Arriving at the outskirts of Dornoch we got speaking with a man who said he’d spotted us on the bridge (probably when we were jumping the barrier). He was white washing his long garden wall, and I thought he’d got about as close to the finish as we were, proportionally. The gentleman was happy to chat with us whilst, in the sunshine, paint dried hard on the brush he was holding. At ‘The Eagle’ pub we sat outside for an on street snack of coronation chicken in baked jacket potato plus a cold pint of O&L. We got chatting to a couple of blokes on the next table and when I remarked that Costa del Dornoch was a little known sunny seaside resort, he explained they enjoyed a local ‘micro climate’ and that it never rained in Dornoch. When I expressed unbelief, he very convincingly went through all the meteorological science to back up his claim. Finally, I’d met someone who could lie even more convincingly than me, which left me feeling both impressed and angry at the same time. Even the A9 couldn’t spoil today’s walking and talking.

2 responses to “Day 107: Tain to Dornoch”

  1. I have been really enjoying all your accounts for walking in Scotland most of it in places we know and have explored over the 25 years we lived in Scotland. You are almost at the furthest north we have gone on the mainland, we have been as far as Golspie on mainland. We have been to Orkney but flew there. Will you nip over at the end of your walk? It is definitely a place to visit and would be nice as a celebration. You are both doing incredibly well, I can’t believe how fast you are nipping up Scotland.

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  2. A picture with a road sign – and JoG was on it! Hurray, you’re down to double digits, not long to go now. I’ve so enjoyed reading your blog (thank you both), sometimes I’ve had to binge and catch up on 3 episodes at once, which made me realise that was a luxury that wasn’t available to you. You can’t stay somewhere comfortable for three days and then binge on the walking bit, can you? I’m so impressd with your resilience and (dogged?) determination. I thought of David especially this morning as I stood in a familiar bathroom and carefully trimmed my eyebrows – hope you can still see Carol in the distance through your fringes. Good luck on the final days – hope the weather is kind to you – it sounds (& looks) a lot better than it is here in Soton today (Sunday).

    Best wishes
    PeterF

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